Collaboration is Critical: The Fair Luxury Team Supports The Copenhagen Commitment
The Copenhagen Commitment (CC) is a movement born out of frustration in the jewellery industry in September 2021. Founded by Svend Wennick and Kira Hog Kampmann. It started after a simple conversation about how each and every one of us can have a positive impact, if we make an effort. From the most rookie silversmith, to the chair of the biggest company, the Copenhagen Commitment aims to find equals and companions to achieve more transparency and ethics in jewellery industry supply chains, and are creating a community to work towards positive change. Very much like the origin of Fair Luxury.
Made up of people, not companies, just like the team of Fair Luxury. Each member and interested party is a professional in their field, but it’s only together that we can strive to make a change. From campaigning for transparency and honesty to sharing knowledge and helping mining communities grow and choose their own future, we all aim to challenge the status quo. As Jewellers and industry professionals, we know our supply chain is still profoundly unfair, it can seem impossible but change is what we must strive for.
The Copenhagen Commitment says “we are a collective of people striving to do what is right, we will train, and we will fail, but most of all, will it be by helping one person, a whole community, or a whole nation, we are taking action.”
Split into groups based on expertise and interest, the attendees of the event worked on several topics; communications, empowerment, lobbying and data collection. Deciding what the main objectives should be and how, as volunteers, we could achieve them.
The objectives of the communications group was to establish a charter for the Copenhagen Commitment with defined values. Share these values effectively through storytelling, emphasising success stories to inspire the next generation. Doing this by strengthen the online presence through social media and collaborations with influencers. And also form partnerships with other organisations in several ways including participating in talks at relevant jewellery events and fairs to promote the community and its stories.
Fair Luxury team member Rebecca Maddock, small business consultant and founder of &Worn Studio took part in this group. Other participants include; Andrew Martyniuk, May Garland of Retail Jeweller, Charlotte Cornelius, Rebekah Ann and event facilitator and CC founding member Camilla Frederiksen.
The main objectives of the group on empowerment were to collaborate with the wider Copenhagen Commitment community, including marketing and lobby groups, to empower ASM (Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining) communities in metal or gem mining. Build connections and engage with ASM communities to understand their needs and provide effective support and secure funds for communities at the start of the supply chain. This discussion also expressed the need to learn from existing programs and organisations, especially MOYO, and emphasised the importance of formalising and supporting local talents within these communities.
Susi Smithers, founder of The Rock Hound and Alice Rochester from Harriet Kelsall, both Fair Luxury team members, were keen participants in this group with others including; CC founding member Marie Louise Joensen, Alistair Mccallum, Alex Skachkov, Ming Lampson, Susie Ekelund, Pippa Small, CC founding member Veronique Ribbik and Copenhagen Commitment founder Svend Wennick,
The lobby group decided they should have a strong and disruptive voice that stands out from larger, corporate companies. It needs to engage with existing structures. Establish a central space where all members can gather with a consistent message and ultimately create a group capable of pushing back against larger companies while exploring ways to provide value to larger companies to encourage change.
Our own Stuart Pool, founder of Nineteen48 took part in this group along with Thelma West, Peter Crump, Rebecca van Rooijen, Francesc Picanyol, Iris Van Der Veken, CC founding member Yianni Melas, CC founding member Joy Harvey and Chris Oliver, Head of Professional Training at the Goldsmith Centre.
The objectives of the team on data collection decided creating an open-source database or tool for the jewellery industry to enhance data quality, providing industry-defined definitions and data for product and supply chain credibility. This database would offer easily accessible environmental and social impact information for each product. Worked on incrementally, there would be an initial focus on metals with later expansion to stones.
Defining terms and definitions is a massive endeavour which many organisations have begun and discussed over the years. But if completed it would be an invaluable tool for jewellers, industry professionals and consumers. Other organisations have begun this work including the Jewelry Glossary Project born out of the Jewelry Industry Summit as well as work by The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and Ethical Metalsmiths. However less progress has been made here in Europe and the task remains incredibly important.
Our Fair Luxury team member Karen Westland of the Scottish Goldsmith Trust took part in the data conversation. Along with other notable names like: Charlie Betts, Marta Cruz, Tomas Morehen, Annabel Cox, Hannah Dunne, Chris Hocknell, Matthew Bransby and Jos Skeates.
The main takeaways of the workshop was to go forward by developing a manifesto, focusing on the ASM (Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining) community and government support while seeking support from key associations, individuals, and the wider industry to move forward together.
Our key thought after the workshop was that when is comes to building a more sustainable supply chain and responsible jewellery industry there is no room for competition. Collaboration is critical if we, as mindful professionals, want to take strides towards this more ethical future.
Images courtesy of Reno Erik Kofoed.