Fair Lux Focus On: Kathy Chappell, Fair Trade Gemstones

Kathy has worked in the gemstone business for over 20 years. Through her family gemstone business, Fair Trade Gemstones, she has successfully marketed Ruby and Sapphire as well as being a distributor for CanadaMark diamonds from the Dominion Diamond Corporation. Her client list includes wholesale and retail jewellers committed to fair trade principles and she is a member of Women in Mining. Kathy is a truly inspiring figure in the industry and we are privileged to have her as part of the Fair Luxury team.

What’s your background and how did you get involved in the gemstone industry?

I have worked in the gemstones business for over 20 years, I emigrated to Canada as a child, settling in the gold mining town of Red Lake, Norwest Ontario before that in Quebec.  Later on, in the diamond province of Guyana (South America) and then South Africa. Eventually returning to the UK.  We had a family gemstone business with my father mining emeralds in South Africa and ruby and sapphire in Malawi.  We have successfully marketed these stones through our partnership with Columbia Gem House (CGH) of the USA.  The pioneers of ethical sourcing and distribution.  I am a distributor of Canadian Diamonds through the CanadaMark programme. 

What drew you to Fair Luxury?

Although I was not a founding member, I was asked to contribute in one form or another.  I continue to support FL, because I feel strongly it is important to get the message across.  I am a huge fan of the younger generation and how they contribute to society, new knowledge and ideas are always welcome and beneficial.  

What part of running Fair Trade Gemstones are you most passionate about?

I am passionate about traceability and acknowledging the miners, cutters, polishers, along the supply chain.  They have to have a voice and benefit directly or indirectly from the product.  It is a privilege to work with designers, jewellers and hobbyists alike.  I have clients from all walks of life buying my gemstones and I love to hear their stories and why they source ethical gemstones. 

In your role as 'ethical advisor' to the London Diamond Bourse, what part of your work is most rewarding?

I was asked to join the Board of London Diamond Bourse some 6 years ago and as their ‘Ethical Advisor’, acting to help enhance conversations around responsible sourcing and strengthen the Bourse’s understanding of specialist issues.  

How have the general attitudes of jewellers changed towards the gemstone industry over the years?

I have personally seen a huge change in the jewellery industry over the last 20+ years and I have to say it was led by the younger generation.  They start with learning ethics in school and so it follows through.  They want to know where the product comes from, how it was produced and who is involved in the pipeline – the mine to market concept.  The start of Covid was a major factor in this, people had time to explore and learn.

What, if anything, do you see as a boundary to companies using fully traceable stones and how can they overcome it?

The only boundary I can see is availability.  We are now seeing more and more distributors of traceable stones; which helps with availability but not every ethical supplier has the specific stone a customer needs and so the customer will try other distributors to find a specific gemstone for customer, this enables the jeweller to a sale. 

What are your opinions of lab-grown stones?

In my personal opinion, I believe they are a fashion item and not a luxury item, on, resale there will be more money in the scrap value of the mount than there will be in the lab-grown diamond. Mined diamonds are a luxury item and have been formed in the earth’s mantle millions of years ago, they have a romanticism around them.  I feel you do not get this from a diamond manufactured in a factory.  Over 10 million people are directly and indirectly supported by the global diamond industry, 5 million people have access to appropriate healthcare due to revenues from the diamond industry.  You do not get these benefits from laboratory diamonds.    

Do you have a favourite gemstone? If so what and why.

I thought long and hard about this, but I really have to say, I like all gemstones, they are part of our earth and simply holding one radiates emotions. There is something special about mined stones. 

A very diplomatic answer to end there from Kathy. We hope you have enjoyed this invaluable insight into Kathy’s business and experience, hers is an inspiring story and voice in the industry. Our whole team have so much knowledge to share, if there are questions you would like to ask the team let us know and we will do our best to help!