The Shadow of Gold

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290663194{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”674″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” onclick=”custom_link” css=”.vc_custom_1580063169374{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}” link=”https://www.fairluxury.co.uk/featured/ethicalmakingresource/”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]

Join us for an online screening of

The Shadow of Gold

In partnership with
The Goldsmiths’ Centre and the Incorporation of Goldsmiths

 

Following the successful UK film premiere in March at the Goldsmiths’ Centre there is now another chance to catch this incredibly moving film and this time you can join us from wherever you are.

Date   Wed 24 June 2020
Time   6:00pm-8:00pm
Price   £5
Venue Online – via Zoom

BOOK NOW

The film reveals that glittering gold has a dark shadow, taking an unflinching look at how the world’s favourite precious metal is extracted from the earth. It explores both the big-time mining companies that dig deep and lop off mountaintops to extract gold from low-grade ore, and the small-time miners – an estimated 20 million people in the world’s poorest nations – who extract gold by hand, often producing just enough to survive.

 

 

But it doesn’t leave it there: we meet engineers, scientists, and Fair-Trade advocates who work with miners to tackle gold’s worst environmental and social problems. In an industrial-scale mine, we see new technology replacing cyanide-based processing with a biological process that leaves no toxic waste. We watch small-scale miners benefit from an environmentally friendly processes that replaces mercury and actually produces more gold. We meet Fair Trade jewellers who have created their own self-managed, transparent supply chain that ensures consumers know exactly where their gold comes from.

The film screening will be followed by a showing of the original panel discussion with the film producer Sally Blake, Duncan Marshall of Betts Metals and Rachel Brass of Levin Sources chaired by our very own Anna Loucah[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”660″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” onclick=”custom_link” css=”.vc_custom_1576437000703{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}” link=”https://www.fairluxury.co.uk/featured/gold-supply/”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1564614296186{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]The news of Cred ceasing trading has been a surprise to many of us and we’d like to acknowledge the pioneering work of Cred and the incredible achievements and commitment of Greg Valerio, Alan Frampton and the Cred team in bringing about and sourcing Fairtrade Gold for the UK market. We know this has an impact on UK jewellers working with Fairtrade Gold and appreciate that the supply challenges facing Cred were partly due to mining organisations seeking greater order quantity and consistency.

The good news is that there is ongoing availability of Fairtrade Gold in Peru and Europe and European players in the supply chain have the mechanism for purchasing in sufficient quantities – just not a current distribution chain in place with UK suppliers. The Fairtrade Foundation is in ongoing discussions with a range of new traders to facilitate bringing increased volumes of Fairtrade Gold to UK manufacturers and we hope to host a session early in the New Year with Fairtrade once these arrangements are confirmed to share information and answer questions.

In the short term Fairtrade Gold is available from existing registered UK suppliers, click here for details. In addition, Fair Ever (formerly Traid Gold), a German trader with a UK distribution network already in place, has good volumes of semi-finished materials in Fairtrade Gold on their website available to buy. You can visit their site here.

We also have an update from ARM confirming that there is a good and consistent supply of Fairmined Gold in the UK, through Vipa Designs and Betts Metals. Click here to access details of global suppliers from the Fairmined website. The 8 Fairmined certified mining organisations in Peru, Colombia and Mongolia are producing stable quantities of around 35kg gold a month with 5 more coming on stream in the next year or so.

We know there are challenges in balancing certified gold supply and demand, particularly with the artisanal nature of both ends of the supply chain, but as you can see, the big picture is positive and we’ll continue working to build commitment from our industry, increase awareness and demand for responsibly sourced gold which in turn creates an even stronger environment for a sustainable certified gold supply.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

The CO Jewellery Hub

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”650″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1574018284300{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1564614296186{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Common Objective (CO), a pioneering tech solution for sustainable fashion sourcing, has launched a Responsible Jewellery Handbook designed to support the jewellery trade to make more ethical business decisions. The site brings together resources from industry experts, including the Incorporation of Goldsmiths,  to create a consolidated hub of information, tools and suppliers.

The pressure on luxury brands to take responsibility for their impact continues to grow, however the majority of campaigns to-date have been dedicated to the apparel and footwear sectors – the G7 Fashion Pact and London Fashion Week Extinction Rebellion protests being the most recent organised efforts from both industry and consumers.

Common Objective believe the jewellery industry will ultimately fall under similar scrutiny and therefore jewellers have a real need to understand how to work responsibly whilst continuing to run a financially viable business.
The Responsible Jewellery Handbook aims to help the trade do just that.

The handbook explores topics such as:

  • Supply chain transparency
  • Circularity in jewellery manufacturing
  • Ethical materials
  • Industry accreditation

CO’s platform also provides tools on understanding risks and opportunities, and how to put in place strategies to set and meet your responsibility goals

Fair Luxury’s own Victoria Waugh, has been supporting CO to develop the handbook and believes it’s essential for the trade, ‘CO brings together resources from across the sector to create a comprehensive tool for the jewellery industry and, crucially, provides a platform for responsible suppliers, brands and retailers to connect across the globe.  It builds on learnings from the fashion and textile sectors, to provide jewellers with proven strategies for working responsibly.’

The handbook will continue to be co-created with experts and partners throughout 2019-20, the end goal being a comprehensive and practical reference point for the jewellery trade.  It is free for individuals to sign up www.commonobjective.co[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Fair Luxury at IJL

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”428″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1564614242598{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1564614296186{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]For 2019 at London’s annual jewellery fair we presented a series of talks covering different aspects of responsible sourcing with both practical advice and news of inspirational projects to explore how both small organisations and international collaborations can and are bringing about real change:

Gold with Heart
David Finlay, Manager, Fairtrade Gold, Fairtrade Foundation

Fairtrade Gold promises benefits for mining communities, the environment and gold-buying businesses. But what do these benefits look like in practice? And what first steps can businesses take to benefit from a relationship with Fairtrade and small-scale mining communities? This talk answered these questions and pointed towards the future direction of travel for Fairtrade Gold in the UK and beyond.

Using Partnerships to Bring Traceable and Responsibly Mined Gemstones to the International Jewellery Market
Stuart Pool, Nineteen48

Stuart presented the Moyo Gemstones project – an ethical gemstone collaboration born in Tanzania between Nineteen 48, Pact and Anza Gems to bring traceable, responsibly mined gemstones to the international market which really benefit artisanal mining communities. They are developing relationships and processes with the female artisanal gem miners of the Uba Valley to deliver their rubies, sapphires, tourmalines, and garnets from mine-to-market and working to empower women miners to work safely, mine better, improve financial security, and create stable, equitable markets for fair trade.

Responsible Sourcing for Small Jewellers: Easier than you Think
Levin Sources and Fair Luxury

This practical seminar gave actionable strategies for jewellers to develop policies and procedures to live up to their ethical commitment, transform their own business and gain a competitive advantage in a market where jewellery customers are increasingly keen to purchase ethical, sustainable and compassionate pieces.

This inclluded the steps on the journey to achieving an ethical supply chain – assessing existing suppliers and practice, drafting ethical policies, considering human and environmental impact and communicating ethical commitment to an increasingly questioning jewellery buying public. Our expert panel showed from experience how it can be done.

Rosanna Tufo, Researcher and Project Manager, Levin Sources
Susi Smither, Founder, The Rock Hound
Arabel Lebrusan, Founder, Lebrusan Studio
Stuart Pool, Founder, Nineteen 48[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Fashion Revolution

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1526566852539{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][rev_slider alias=”whomadeyourjewellery”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]This Fashion Revolution Week, April 22 to 28 2019, we want jewellery lovers to start asking their favourite jewellery brands ‘who made my jewellery?’ and ‘who mined my gold?’

 

We’re campaigning to bring more transparency to the jewellery industry and spotlight jewellers who are already making impact so it’s a great opportunity to highlight your own responsible practice and let others know what you are doing.

 

Everyone in the jewellery supply chain, from designer makers and brands to stone cutters, manufacturers and miners is invited to join in – here’s how:

Ask the people in your supply chain to take a selfie with the campaign’s ‘I made your jewellery’ banner. You can download it in pdf form here

Post your images on social media during Fashion Revolution Week and beyond, using the hashtags

#whomademyjewellery
#whomadeyourjewellery
#whominedyourgold
#imadeyourjewellery
#iminedyourgold
#iminedyourgemstone
#fashionrevolution

Tag us at @fairluxuk so we can share your posts and amplify the message. @fairtrade and @fairmined are getting behind our campaign too so tag them and @fash_rev too.

Ask your clients and friends to get involved and share the message too by asking “who made my jewellery?” (click here to download “who made my jewellery”)
Encourage them and your suppliers to post on social media too – and don’t forget to respond!

 

The Fashion Revolution movement has raised awareness of the challenges in fashion manufacturing and caused people to question brands on where and how clothing is made. We want people to think the same way about the story and people behind their jewellery and asking where their gold and gemstones came from. Find out more about Fashion Revolution and download campaign resources and artwork at fashionrevolution.org

 

Let’s get together and make some noise for the jewellery world this Fashion Revolution Week[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Perspectives Exhibition

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1526566852539{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][rev_slider alias=”perspectives-at-elements”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Edinburgh’s annual jewellery event, the Elements Festival, takes place this weekend from 19th to 21st October and we’re delighted to have co-curated the festival exhibition with the Incorporation of Goldsmiths.

Entitled Perspectives – Creating Jewellery for a Fairer Future, the exhibition features work from more than 30 makers, from high-end to high-street, from avant-garde to classic design. Take a journey with us and discover some amazing pieces while exploring the broad range of ethical choices and considerations for jewellery buyers and makers.

Exhibitors include Ute Decker, Wright & Teague, Made, Dorothy Hogg and the Fair Luxury team.

Ths is a must-visit event for all jewellery lovers!

19th – 21st October
11am to 6pm
Lyon & Turnbull
Broughton Place
Edinburgh EH1 3RR

For more about the events and full details visit the Elements Festival website

 

images:
Sandra Wilson – Purest Green Bowl / Amanda Li Hope – Commission in progress /
Arabel Lebrusan – Victoriana bangle / Cox & Power – Arena Ring
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Diamonds For Peace

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”460″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1536530506610{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1536530464518{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Diamonds for Peace was formed in Japan in 2014 as a direct result of founder Chie Murakami’s exploration of the diamond industry and supply chain when she became engaged and wanted to find out more about where diamonds come from.

Working at each end of the supply chain, Diamonds for Peace has a unique two-stranded approach, both raising public awareness about the challenges and realities of the diamond industry and also engaging on-the-ground with a mining project working to bring responsibly sourced diamonds to market.

For more about Diamonds for Peace and their work you can access and download their newsletter here.

You will also hear from some of the people in the artisanal mining community in Liberia where Diamonds for Peace is working to develop a better and safer working environment as well as a more equitable route to market.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Fair Luxury at IJL 2018

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”488″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1538136134760{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1535621439956{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Fair Luxury brought The Human Face of the Jewellery Supply Chain to IJL on Tuesday, 4th September 2018.

The seminar took place over three sessions at the Retail Theatre with an open-eyed yet positive look at situations and initiatives that are impacting the lives of people in our industry.

10.00 – 10.30am
The Hidden Cost of Jewellery – Human rights in the supply chain and how to source responsibly, Komala Ramachandra (Human Rights Watch)

Human Rights Watch highlights the human issues in the jewellery manufacturing sector, covered in detail in their report the Hidden Cost of Jewellery.

10.45 – 11.15am
Successes, challenges and progress on human rights in the artisanal mining sector, Victoria Gronwald, (Levin Sources Limited)

In this session Victoria highlights the extreme working conditions and human risks of artisanal mining and discusses progress and challenges on the journey towards integrating this important sector into global regulated supply chains.

11.30am – 12.00pm
Social impact models – Her Future Coalition – sourcing from a social enterprise for women jewellers in disadvantaged communities in India, Sarah Greenaway (Mosami)

Exploring impact innovation in the manufacturing sector, Sarah shares case studies of Her Future Coalition and other social enterprises that are changing lives, showing how positive impact can be made by re-imagining the supply chain.

For the IJL website click here and for our facebook event page here

You can access some of the presentations here

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Fair Luxury at the RCA

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”Fair Luxury at the RCA” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1526915320210{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}” link=”url:https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eventbrite.co.uk%2Fe%2Ffair-luxury-at-the-rca-tickets-45681422364|title:book%20now|target:%20_blank|”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”381″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1527344940584{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]At Fair Luxury at the RCA 2018 we heard about and discussed some of the opportunities, issues and challenges around ethical sourcing.

The day included presentations from some of the key figures in the field of responsible sourcing and practice with some fresh approaches and new names including practising jewellers, representatives of certification programmes, gem traders, consultants and researchers working on artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM). If you want to be the first to know about future events please sign up to our mailing list.

 

DATE AND TIME

Wednesday 11th July 2018, 9:30 – 17:30

 

LOCATION

Royal College of Art
Jay Mews Entrance, Darwin Building
Kensington Gore
London
SW7 2EU

 

Subjects and speakers will include:

The Fairmined Certification Programme
Yves Bertan and Kenneth Porter from the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM)

Mining in Sri Lanka
Stuart Pool (Nineteen 48 Gemstones)

Being a Licensee Jeweller: Ideals and Practicalities
Susi Smither (The Rock Hound), Tim Ingle (Ingle & Rhode), Naqiyah Sultan (Kashka), Peter Crump (Vipa Designs)

“Make It Happen” with Fairmined Gold
Martin Taber (Ethical Metalsmiths)

The Ethical Making Resource
Mary Michel and Emily Macdonald (Incorporation of Goldsmiths)

Diamond Supply Chains
Gavin Hilson (University of Surrey)

Discussion and Wrap-up event, drawing on the days themes
Estelle Levin-Nally (Levin Sources)

Click here for event details and directions

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The Hidden Cost of Jewelry

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”231″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1523288751264{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1523289601342{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]A 15-year-old boy mixes mercury and ground gold ore at a processing site in Mbeya Region, Tanzania.

image © 2013 Justin Purefoy for Human Rights Watch.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]On 8th February 2018 Human Rights Watch reported on their findings about supply chain transparency in the jewellery industry.

 

The hard-hitting report pulls no punches about the harsh reality of life for many gold and gemstone miners or the fact that most jewellers have no idea where their materials come from or the conditions under which they were mined and sourced.

Human Rights Watch figures estimate that there are 40 million people working in artisanal small-scale mining for the gold and diamond industries and of those around one million are children.

 

We know that much of the gold we buy for jewellery is recycled but for newly mined gold, the vast majority of the workforce is working at artisanal level, many in subsistence conditions with few choices over their working environment. For most gold on the market there is absolutely no guarantee of abuse or exploitation-free provenance.

 

The report focused on existing standards in relation to avoiding human rights abuses in the industry and the responses of the 13 jewellery companies HRW approached about due diligence in their supply chains. The report may have had a mixed reception but there’s no denying that the ongoing challenge to all of us in the industry is to look at our own supply chains and be bold in asking our suppliers about theirs.

 

You can read the full report at

https://www.hrw.org/report/2018/02/08/hidden-cost-jewelry/human-rights-supply-chains-and-responsibility-jewelry

 

and for more follow-up, with some very helpful information and comment, read the following on the Levin Sources Blog:

http://www.levinsources.com/blog/better-business-in-the-jewellery-sector-supply-chain-transparency

http://www.levinsources.com/blog/better-business-in-the-jewellery-sector-traceability

http://www.levinsources.com/blog/jewellery-industry-responsible-sourcing-human-rights-watch[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]