Diamonds – the hot topic

Diamonds – the hot topic

Alongside our autumn Fair Luxury Open House events, a series of webinars and talks on the theme of diamonds and the ethical issues and challenges faced and created by the diamond industry have been taking place across the globe. These eye-opening and positive events shine a light on what needs to change in the industry and offer possibilities for change.

kimberley process diamonds seminar

We all know that the lack of traceability in diamond supply chains is a huge issue. Knowing the origin and the path is the first step to know if diamonds are mined, cut, and processed with humanitarian and environmental considerations.
The webinar will explore how Blockchain and other emerging technologies can and are beginning to be used to help supply chains be traceable and accountable.

Other subjects addressed with open eyes and a realistic perspective to date include:  Human rights violations in the Kimberley Process, environmental destruction, the diamond industry viewed through the lens of the UN Sustainable Development Goals. The great thing is that alongside highlighting the problems are proposals for solutions and positive activities that have been implemented to date.

Thank you Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference, Diamonds for Peace and others for creating a critical mass of content and to Human Rights Watch, The International Peace Information Service (IPIS), the Kimberley Process Civil Society Coalition and everyone who is bringing these important matters to the fore.

Open House: Diamonds – What’s Next?

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”894″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” onclick=”custom_link” css=”.vc_custom_1605261463068{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}” link=”https://www.fairluxury.co.uk/featured/open-house-on-diamonds”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1594667135820{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]The fifth Open House concludes our series on diamonds with a real­‑life look at diamond mining, human rights and the environment.

 

Join us on Friday 27 November 3pm (GMT)

Book your place here.

 

We’ll be addressing some difficult questions and challenges:

What the Kimberley Process is and what it isn’t. Flaws and potential solutions.

What it is really like on the ground; what would improve the situation? What if everyone just bought lab grown diamonds?

Our own Clara Breen and David Crump will host with guest speakers who have experience in African diamond mining and have conducted independent research in the field. Their short presentations will be followed by small group discussions, a chance to reflect and connect with others on what you’ve heard and learned.

 

Guest Speakers

Shamiso Mtisi         Deputy Director at the Zimbabwe Environmental Law Association and
                              Kimberley Process Civil Society Coalition Coordinator

Hans Merket           Researcher, International Peace Information Service (IPIS Research)

Chie Murakami        Founder & Director General, NGO Diamonds for Peace

 

find out more and register

 

This session will round up the Fair Luxury Open House series on diamonds and their impact on people and planet. We’ve looked at natural diamonds and mining, explored developments and challenges in the lab-grown diamond industry and faced up to some of the challenges and changes in the industry, including a hard look at the Kimberley Process. Together we are developing our understanding of the ethics of this most fascinating of gemstones and finding out about the diamond industry in relation to the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals. You can find out more about the UNSDGs here.

Get together with the ethical jewellery community and find support on your fair jewellery journey. Established designers, makers, new graduates and independent businesses – whatever stage of the ethical sourcing journey you’re at, you are very welcome.

If you enjoy regular updates from Fair Luxury, sign up to hear about or events and activities, follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.
Just click the social buttons at the top of the page.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Fashion Gets Active!

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”568″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1599068151080{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1599067770933{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”]Gold Spiral Earrings   Ute Decker[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Those of us with long standing commitment to ethical sourcing have been working towards creating greater public awareness of the somewhat murkier challenges faced by the jewellery industry for some time now. It is often a difficult message to convey to an audience previously unaware that such issues exist and a tricky subject to broach with those only wishing to feel joy and hope for their own future with the purchase of that special ring.

 

How can something so representative of love be tainted by the struggles of those in the supply chain that created it?

 

Fifteen years ago, Hollywood focused public attention on the atrocities committed in the sourcing of what had become known as a ‘Blood Diamond’ with its release of a film of that name. However, since then wider public awareness has somewhat plateaued. Have we simply assumed that because there has been a film about it the issues highlighted have somehow been resolved?

 

We in the privileged western world are continuing to realise the power we hold as consumers but that can be overwhelming. Can we find ourselves dampened by a feeling of eco overload when everything that we choose to spend our money on seems to have some negative impact on our precious planet somewhere down the line?

 

Independent jewellers have long been conscientiously sharing their own best practice with their individual client bases and the number of such jewellers committed to ethical practice has grown exponentially over recent years – but it has still been a story that’s fermenting rather than exploding. Reaching a wider audience takes a louder voice.

 

And so, to see an entire feature in September’s edition of British Vogue dedicated to ethical sourcing and transparency in the supply chain does feel like a pretty substantial bump up the ladder.

 

The global fashion behemoth has again put itself one step ahead of what its readership wants before they knew they want it and dedicated a glossy 4-page spread – dripping with gorgeous jewels – to discuss, in user friendly terms, the complexities of today’s jewellery industry.

 

In an edition dedicated entirely to defining what modern activism looks like, Vogue UK’s Jewellery and Watch Director Rachel Garrahan digs into the many challenges facing the jewellery industry supply chain but also celebrates its many achievements.

 

‘Now more than ever, jewellers are committing to responsible sourcing via supply chains as lucid as the gems themselves’ she writes. ‘In a global jewellery industry estimated to be worth £230 billion, there is a growing demand among consumers to be able to make ethically sound choices’

 

The article features sound bites from numerous long committed jewellers alongside a dazzling display of the precious creations themselves – such as those of Fair Luxury friend and co-conspirator Ute Decker. In addition to the glossy images it is also pleasing to see a number of the development initiatives and supply chain trailblazers gain recognition – including our very own, ever glamorous and fashion forward Stuart Pool of Nineteen48!

 

In the long game towards creating a more transparent and responsible business practice this is an encouraging indication of what can be achieved with greater consumer awareness. The continued commitment of those working in all sectors of our industry combined with our shared collaborative passion means that we can enjoy, with growing confidence, a sense that we are moving towards something that can sincerely be defined as Fair Luxury.

 

Anna Loucah, September 2020

 

 

 

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Open House August

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”828″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1597910927536{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1594667135820{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Our second Open House will take place on Friday 28th August, 4-5pm BST.
Thank you to everyone who participated in July, we hope you found it fruitful and look forward to seeing everyone who can join us next time.

This month’s theme for discussion is
Does sustainability kill the romance of selling jewellery?

Do you ever speak with your clients about the serious issues in ‘standard’ practices in metal or gemstone mining (e.g. child labour, mercury etc…) to encourage them to choose the more sustainable options? Do you find that speaking about those issues kills the romance of the jewellery buying experience?

We will have a similar format to last month with small breakout groups for the middle section of the Open House. with participants asked to have a think about three questions beforehand which we will discuss in small groups.

 

-What options do you offer your clients?

-What response have you had from them?

-In what ways have you raised this topic effectively?

 

It is free to attend but please register in advance to join us.

Here’s the link in full just in case you need it

https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/fair-luxury-open-house-tickets-116250499373

See you there![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Our First Open House

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”816″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1595690031790{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1594667135820{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]

 

The Fair Luxury Open House is an opportunity to connect with the ethical jewellery community and find support on your fair jewellery journey.

Are you interested in more ethical sourcing in your jewellery-making practice or business? Or perhaps you’ve started on the journey, but at times it can feel like you’re swimming against the tide.

You are not alone!

Join Fair Luxury Open House on Zoom for an informal monthly get together to find support, learn and exchange on all things relating to ethical jewellery practices: sourcing, making tips, and much more. By nurturing a sense of human connection and sharing information we can support each other and help to focus our individual intentions. Established designers, makers, new graduates and independent businesses – whatever stage of the ethical sourcing journey you’re at, you are very welcome.

Our first event took place on Friday 31st July 2020, with a short introduction followed by a breakout into smaller groups of four or five people, each led by a Fair Luxury team member. We explored the challenges we have encountered, discussed progress made and covered any concerns and areas people want to learn more about. We concluded by rejoining the main group and comparing notes on what was discussed in the small group sessions.

Sessions last for an hour in total and are not currently recorded as the Open House is designed to be a space for sharing information and finding peer support in confidence. However we do intend to pick up on any areas of common interest at future events.

Open House free to join via signing up on Eventbrite and you can find details for each meeting on our featured post – so keep an eye out for monthly updates.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Tackling Racism in the Jewellery Industry

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290770768{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”798″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1594667123797{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][vc_column_text el_class=”caption” css=”.vc_custom_1594667135820{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]In a very short space of time, the Black Lives Matter campaign has amplified awareness of racism in its many forms and given fresh voice to the experience of injustice and inequality faced by Black people. It has also caused many to reflect on the white privilege they’d never considered and address their accountability in both unconscious and conscious racial bias. This is a historic moment and must not pass without real change being the result.

 

Many of you will have read Kassandra Lauren-Gordon’s open letter to the jewellery industry re. racism, originally published on 17 June and reproduced here with the author’s permission. Alongside a call to action she also recounts some of her own experience of racism during her career.

 

What are we and our industry doing to make change?

The activity of Fair Luxury is often associated with materials sourcing and the supply chain but when we use the work “equitable” to describe the kind of jewellery industry we want to see, it includes reflecting the diversity of our society and ensuring the colour of someone’s skin is not a barrier to entry and opportunity in the trade.

 

Looking at the following definition, we know that that silence and passivity will not tackle inequality or bring about change in society:
“Anti-racism is the active process of identifying and eliminating racism by changing systems, organizational structures, policies and practices and attitudes, so that power is redistributed and shared equitably.”
(NAC International Perspectives: Women and Global Solidarity from http://www.aclrc.com/antiracism-defined)

 

Fair Luxury acknowledges that good intentions are not enough to bring about change in our jewellery industry and we believe that, from educators to businesses to institutions, we need to proactively address and counter systemic and structural racism at all levels.

 

Working for equality and human rights is as important and urgent as tackling the climate crisis if we are serious about a sustainable future for humankind. Both call for action, whether we consider ourselves campaigners or not.

 

The NAJ and the Goldsmiths’ Company have released statements in response to the new awareness of racism, click their names to link to the statements.

Click the link for the Hardship Fund for Black Jewellers fundraising page

Click here for the Ethical Metalsmiths Social Justice Resources page

 

Please let us know of any initiatives or other useful links that we can include here.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Take the Fair Luxury Pledge

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290663194{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”765″ img_size=”full”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Jewellery is bought, displayed and passed on as a token of love, a reflection of our personalities or as means of communicating power and wealth. Though beautiful and sparkly on the surface, sadly jewellery is often tarnished by its journey into fruition, via supply chains that harbour social injustice and perpetuate environmental destruction.

We know that when jewellery is produced responsibly it can provide sustainable livelihoods for all involved – from the miners of raw materials right through the supply chain to the ultimate designer or retailer of the finished piece.

As individual designers, makers, traders and educators we’ve pledged to make changes and business decisions that are driven by more than just profit. In every aspect of our work we seek to ensure that we are achieving and maintaining a safe, sustainable and just industry for all. We dream of one day casting our minds back and feeling proud to place ourselves at the core of the revolution that transformed the jewellery trade for good.

We are each at a different stage in our journey towards responsible business, but we are all working on it. No matter how big or small, our collective actions will change the world. Will you join the movement?

 

The Fair Luxury Pledge

Through the jewellery we create and the ways we run our businesses, those who make the Fair Luxury Pledge each promise to:

  • Conserve and restore the environment
  • Work in a way that is responsible, transparent and accountable
  • Play a role in educating and empowering others

 

Now, it’s your turn. Wondering how to take it from here? It’s simple:

1. Write down your 12-month plan of action. Which tangible steps will you take within the next year? Big or small, your measures should aim towards reducing collective impact on the environment, supporting the people that you connect with and creating a more equitable world for all. You could start by vowing simply to ensure that all your office waste is recycled responsibly, or take the plunge and commit to only sourcing artisanal and small-scale gold from now on. For some quick tips, check out our posts here or our Ethical Making Resource.

2. Share your plan with us in our Pledge forum on Facebook; then we’ll publish it on our website and social media platforms. Alternatively, leave your name and email address in the form here, along with a couple of sentences about who you are and your reasons for making the Pledge.

3. Download the Fair Luxury Pledge badge to share with your website visitors and social media followers. (Click here for the pledge badge) If you have the time, why not create a page on your website dedicated to explaining your pledge?

4. Encourage a jewellery friend to join the movement.

5. Sign up to our mailing list and keep an eye out for email updates about our webinars and events!

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Gold Supply Chains in the Time of Pandemic

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290663194{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”732″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1590423695935{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]The Jewelry Industry Summit and Initiatives in Art and Culture partnered to host a webinar as part of their Fast Forwarding Sustainability series.

Uniting industry experts, this webinar covered pressing concerns for gold supply chains, the impacts of the COVID crisis on artisanal mining communities and potential solutions for responsible gold supply chains. The content and ideas shared led to some new and important thinking about the transformed world we now must confront.

Delegates were
Joanne Lebert  Executive Director, IMPACT
Conny Havel, Head of Supply Chains and Markets, Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM)
Aimee Boulanger, Executive Director, Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA)
Estelle Levin-Nally, Founder + Director, Levin Sources
Christina T. Miller, Founder + Lead Consultant, Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consulting

For those who missed this informative and powerful session we recommend it and you can find it on their webinars page here – or use this link
https://www.jewelryindustrysummit.com/webinars/[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Making Change

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290663194{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”697″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” onclick=”custom_link” css=”.vc_custom_1583601941208{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}” link=”https://www.fairluxury.co.uk/featured/ethicalmakingresource/”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]Make change by changing the way you make.

POSTPONED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE – we’ll update you as soon as new details are announced.

 

The Incorporation of Goldsmiths 4th Ethical Making Symposium, Change Making will focus on how, through innovative design strategies and alternative sourcing methods, jewellers and makers can design out waste, source ethically and create better brands to make for change.

 

Innovative and thoughtful design and material choice are the cornerstones of ethical making and making to create positive change. Design is where new ideas are born, with the potential to disrupt damaging patterns and enact real change. Material choice can account for up to 95% of a product’s social and environmental impact. Choosing materials that are responsibly sourced, that reduce waste and promote social welfare is critical in the process of making for change. Combining this with innovative design transforms how and why we make, creating a better future of making.

The 2020 Change Making Symposium is open to students, makers and industry professionals and will be hosted by the Glasgow School of Art (GSA) in partnership with GSA Sustainability. The symposium talks will address Scotland’s design culture and legacy of ethical making, what sustainable materials are and how they can make positive change, and circular economy design principles.

Tickets can be purchased once the new date is announced.

Speakers and suppliers will include:

  • Dr Stacey Hunter, Design Curator and Producer
  • Kira Kampmann, Marc’Harit Pearls
  • Mary Michel, Ostrero, Circular Economy Research
  • Maira Toledo Rodrigues, Gemstones Brazil
  • Stuart Pool, Nineteen48 Gemstones
  • Betts Metals
  • Fairtrade
  • Fairmined

And more to be announced!

After a morning of engaging talks from makers, suppliers and researchers, there will be an ethical supplier fair in the afternoon for attendees to talk to suppliers and learn more about ethically sourced materials, followed by a drinks reception.

We will then be screening The Shadow of Gold, a new documentary examining the global gold trade, the second screening as part of the film’s UK premiere followed by a Q&A session.

 

Attendees may also register for a workshop in the afternoon (tickets are first come first serve and sold separately).
Scotland-based maker Jo Pudelko will be leading a practical jewellery workshop in which attendees will be reconstructing pre-owned jewellery into new pieces.

 

The Incorporation of Goldsmiths is committed to helping makers on their journey towards ethical making and do this through their annual Symposiums, a range of grants, the Ethical Making Resource and the Ethical Making Pledge with the Scottish Art Colleges. The Ethical Making Resource has been created by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths of the City of Edinburgh, which trades as the Edinburgh Assay Office, and is Scotland’s oldest consumer protection group. They have hundreds of years of experience in third-party, independent assessment and are now applying that experience to one of the most important issues in the industry today: making ethically and sustainably in a global world.

 

For more updates on the symposium and the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, follow @incorporationofgoldsmiths on Instagram and subscribe to their newsletter at www.incorporationofgoldsmiths.org. Head to www.ethicalmaking.org to learn more about the Ethical Making Resource.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Fairmined Europe Meeting

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_custom_heading source=”post_title” font_container=”tag:h3|text_align:left” css=”.vc_custom_1523290663194{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row gap=”10″][vc_column width=”1/3″][vc_single_image image=”723″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1586903235645{margin-bottom: 30px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]The Fairmined Meeting in Munich, February 2020, brought European jewellers and refiners together with Conny Havel and Natalia Uribe Martínez from the Alliance for Responsible Mining. It was an opportunity to hear Fairmined news and updates, celebrate 15 years of the Alliance for Responsible Mining, make new contacts and explore how ARM can better support and meet the needs of all the people and organisations it is involved with. This included the news that Fairmined gold plating is coming on-stream – you may have seen the announcement that D&M are offering this in the UK.

 

For the first time there was a Fairmined presence at the Inhorgenta jewellery fair, alongside the campaign for Mercury Free Mining and a programme of talks focusing on sustainability.

You can download a synopsis of the updates here and read more in the Fairmined blog about their Europe events here.

 

See also below links to some inspiring and informative films about the work of ARM

 

ARM celebrates it’s 15th Anniversary

ARM 15 years

Fairmined: a path to a better future   a great way to show your clients why Fairmined Gold is Gold to be Proud Of

and two movies that really show the difference Fairmined certification makes to communities.

Transforming mining communities

MACDESA: Creating a future for everyone[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]